Climbing Rope Care: Cleaning and Retirement
A climber's safety depends on the condition of their equipment and its appropriate use. Ropes are made of supple nylon and can be unintentionally damaged. Proper care of climbing rope means greater safety so you'll both enjoy a long and happy life.
Cleaning
It's best to wash your climbing rope by hand in cool water with a mild chemical-free soap. Rinse it well, and spread it out to air-dry, but avoid putting it in direct sunlight. You can also use specialized cleaning products like rope brushes. Don't wash your rope in a machine with an agitator, as it can easily be stretched and damaged. Don't dry it in a dryer, in direct sunlight, or above a heat source. Some substances, such as salt and tree pitch, can be removed with a mild soap, but will probably require several washings.
Storing
Store your rope in a dry place at room temperature. Keep it away from dirt, chemicals, acids and alkali compounds, and sunlight – these degrade nylon. Beware also oxidizing agents (found in concrete), bleaching compounds, and climbers who smoke carelessly.
Care
Climb on with confidence by taking a few precautions:
- Use a rope bag to keep it clean. Dirt contains tiny, sharp microcrystals that can cause internal damage you can't detect.
- Don't step on it. This can work the sharp dirt particles through the sheath and into the core.
- Inspect it after every use and retire it when it's been damaged by rockfall, crampons, sharp edges, a severe fall, or when the mantle is badly abraded.
Retirement
The life expectancy of a rope depends on amount of use, number of falls, climbing technique, type of rock, and handling. Top-roping is hardest on a rope and can abrade a rope badly in no time. Manufacturer's suggested lifespans are merely a guide. How long you use a rope is contingent on the actual wear and condition.
Manufacturer's recommended rope retirement schedule:
- 5-7 years if used for a couple of pitches every few months.
- 2 years for normal weekend use.
- 3 months of near daily use.
- Up to 1 year of part-time use including multiple falls.
- Retire a rope that has been damaged by rock fall, crampons, or sharp rock edges. If you are certain the damage is limited to an end, you can shorten your rope by cutting off the damaged piece.
- Retire your rope immediately if it suffers a fall that approaches factor 2 (a fall that is twice the distance as the amount of rope run out from the belay).